Historical buildings in Söderhamn and Hudiksvall - The History of Söderhamn

Vapen1.jpg (2484 bytes)

THE MUNICIPALITY OF SÖDERHAMN

 

The history of Söderhamn

The first buildings in Söderhamn originated from the iron age. These were just a few houses, and the only traces remaining today of civilisation from this period are a few graves, for example those on Västra Berget (the hill to the west of the town). Faxehus was a fortress strategically located overlooking the entrance to the harbour. It was conquered by the Danes, but retaken by the people of the province of Hälsingland in 1434. They had tired of the Dansh bailiffs´ rigorous tax-collecting. Archeological cartography has been carried out in the area. At the place where the present town of Söderhamn is located, which lay on the border between the parishes of Norrala and Söderala, there was an important trade and fishing harbour.

Söderhamn became a town

The military power´s increased need for weapons in Sweden at the beginning of the 17th century resulted in the moving of gunsmiths from the country in to the towns, which was an order enforced in writing by the King. This was even the case in the province of Hälsingland. In this province there were many skilled gunsmiths, the best in Scandinavia it was said. The only alternative for the gunsmiths was, according to the King´s letter, that they should cease making weapons and become simple farmers instead. The result was that about 40 gunsmiths moved into Söderhamn from the country around..

All of these were given a place in the newly started gun factory, which was established here because of the availability of water-power, and because there was a good harbour. "The reason for the town being founded here, was the fact that there was a Swedish Royal Factory located here", this according to Daniel Djurberg, the historian. On the 7th September 1620 Gustav Adolf 2nd signed the letter of prevligies for the town of Söderhamn. The towns reputation for its weapons and as a harbour town explains the reason for symbols on the town´s seal, which is a vessel with two crossed muskets.

In the town´s early history the inhabitants made a living by weapon-making, farming, fishing and hunting. The genuine old fishermens´ houses in the eastern part of the town are proof that fishing (mainly for salmon and herring), was an important occupation for many of the town´s inhabitants.

Many fires

Thoughout the history of the small town there have been many extensive fires. The small houses of wood lying so close together meant that fires have quickly raged up and spread. The first major fire in the town was in 1675 which resulted in serious damage to the housing area where the smithies lived. The town hall was so badly damaged in this fire that a new hall had to be built.

The Ulrika Eleonora church was inaugurated in 1693, and was given its name after the queen, King Karl 11th´s consort. The next summer King Karl 11th visited Söderhamn on his way home from Torneå. The king was called "The grey coat" by the people. His visit was the first royal visit to Söderhamn. In the company of the clergyman Gudmund Portuan and the mayor Magnus Blix the king visited the new church and afterwards dined with the mayor near the market square.

Between 1719 and 1721 Russian galleys caused havoc along the eastern coast of Sweden. Cossacks went aland, rampaged and set buildings on fire. In May 1721 Russians plundered Söderhamn and set the town ablaze. The town was almost completely burnt to the ground. Only a few buildings survived the fire, among others Ulrika Eleonora church, which today is the only remaining 17th century building. The old church of Maria was burnt down by the Russians. Several new ships with valuable cargos of iron, weapons etc were also destroyed by fire.

But the people of Söderhamn didn´t give up easily. The town was quickly reerected. Many new industries were established, and at this time a large shipbuilding trade developed in the town. In 1780 24 new ships were launched in Söderhamn and a fleet of trading ships was established with Söderhamn as their home port. From here timber and butter was transported to Stockholm, and also linen which was a traditional product of Hälsingland. In the middle of the 19th century iron products were shipped to England, France, Eastern India and North America. Timber was exported to Spain, Portugal and other countries, and the ships brought home the important cargo of salt.

In 1835 the next big fire occurred. This time about 50 buildings were destroyed in central Söderhamn.

There were other fires in 1860 and 1865, but the biggest fire of all in the history of the town broke out on 22nd July 1876. Nearly all of the town centre was destroyed and a third of the towns population was made homeless. They had to reside in temporary accomodation, tents, until their houses were rebuilt. Even public buildings such as two schools and a hospital were burnt to the ground in the fire. The church survived though even on this occasion. The newly erected town hall, built of bricks and mortar, suffered severe damage, but was repaired and taken into use again in 1878.

The development of the sawmill industry

The middle of the 19th century was a very expansive era in the town´s history. Thanks to the fastly growing sawmill industry Söderhamn became one of the country´s biggest industrial centres. The extensive forests were felled, new companies were established, canals for aiding the transport of felled trees by river-floatation were constructed, and sawmills were built. The sawmill industry bloomed and in 1880 there were as many as 11 steam-sawmills on the road between Söderhamn and Ljusne. The population of the town grew rapidly. The old town plan, which had not been changed since the 17th century, was now adapted to the needs of the industrial society.

The modern Söderhamn

The structural development of Söderhamn was characterized by a strictly geometrical town plan based on a perpendicular system of streets . The land between the streets was divided into square plots. No attention was paid to the terrain or other local conditions. Around 1890 the timber industry was not thriving as previously. Sawmills started to close down, which resulted in unemployment and people moving away from the town. This negative development continued right up until 1945 when a Swedish air-force base was located to Söderhamn and the telephone company LM Ericson was established in town. Then people started to move to Söderhamn again and the town regained some of its optimism for the future.

The air-force base was an extremely important part in the daily life of the municipality of Söderhamn for over 50 years. This epoch came to an end when the base was closed down in 1996. The area is now called "Flygstaden" (roughly "Aviation town"), and is now an enterprise estate where many modern businesses have established. In one of the old hangers a museum of aviation has been opened. The visitor can here see different types of aircraft and can try out a unique flight simulator.

The town hall square (Rådhustorget) is still today, after 380 years, the most important square in town. The square was constructed after the fire in 1876. The park south of the river is to a great degree taken up by the railway viaduct, a magnificent iron construction from 1886. The many parks in town with their superb flower beds and wonderful exhibition of colour has made the town famous far beyond its borders. The central parts of Söderhamn, with its pleasant mixture of old buildings and new ones built in an old style, contributes to the character of Söderhamn, an idyllic small town. The pedestrian street is the natural meeting point. Walking tours of the town are arranged each summer led by knowledgable guides.

In the old mill (Kvarnen) one can experience an old millhouse environment from 1751. Exhibitions and other cultural activities are held here throughout the year.

The tower Oscarsborg, built in 1895, is a well known symbol of the town, and provides magnificent views of the town. Beyond the town lie the blue hills and endless forests of the Hälsingland province. To the east lies the glimmering waters of the archipelago, a wonderful place to be in summer.

Söderhamn is close to wonderful countryside. Here there are excellent opportunities to go hiking in the forest, taking boat trips in the archipelago, lazing on the sandy beaches and fishing for trout and other fish, and many other activities. In the winter there is skiing and skating .

 

Söderhamn is located in the centre of Sweden. There is a main-line railway, the E4 European route, air connections and boats. Over the last few years there has been a growing optimism in the town with regards to the future. The town has adopted the following motto:

"The small town, the great countryside, the new spirit."

 

 

Summary of the urban development in Söderhamn 1620-1995

               Image3.jpg (172220 bytes)

 

1620

Söderhamns first town plan was drawn up, probably by Olof Bure, the brother of Anders Bure who was "father of cartography". His task was to plan the town with consideration taken to its location, and to mark out plots of land for the future development of the town. The extent of the town was limited by the hills to the south and to the north, and by the waters of the Baltic to the east. The centre of town was built up around the place which later was to become the town hall square (Rådhustorget). The first town hall was built in 1621 on the east flank of the square. To the west of the square was the gunsmiths workshop close to the river. The church with its clock tower was planned to the north on the outskirts of town.

1750

The town suffured serious fire damage in 1675. Many buildings were destroyed, among others the gunsmith´s buildings. The town was rebuilt, following the previous plan. A new town hall was completed in 1683 on the west side of the town hall square. The Ulrika Eleonora church, located on a small hill to the north of the town centre, was inaugurated in 1693. In 1721 the Russians invaded and burnt down the town. Only the church and some warehouses survived the fire. The old Maria church was burnt down. Afterwards an almost identical town was reerected. A new town hall, the third one in order, was built in 1724 on the northern part of the town hall square. The gunsmith´s store room, which was burnt down by the Russians, was rebuilt in 1722 and still stands today. In 1748 a wellhouse was built, which today houses the museum.

               Image4.gif (43990 bytes)

 

1857

The town still had its 17th century characteristics. In 1835 the town was once again seriously damaged by fire. About 50 buildings in the centre of town and south of the river were destroyed. The surveyor P H Widmark was given the reposibility of doing a new town plan. He wanted to straighten out the river, extend the town hall square, widen the main streets, and create a grid street system with square plots. The extension of the square and straightening of the river were implemented. Planning for new houses to the north east on land which previously had been below sea-level had commenced. This area is now the centre of town.

1900

After the two fires in 1860 and 1865 came the big fire on 22nd July 1876. More than 2000 people became homeless. Once again they had to start building up their town again from the ground. P G Sundius town plan from 1875 was followed to a great degree for the rebuilding. The railway line was built on the south side of the river. A grid pattern of streets and plots was the basis for the town´s building development. Parks, esplanades, and open places were considered important and became characteristic for Söderhamn, together with the church, the town hall, and the Oscarsborg tower on the east hill which was inaugurated in 1895.

               Image5.gif (85819 bytes)

 

1950

At the beginning of the 20th century new town planning ideas emerged. Grid systems of streets were abandoned. Instead streets were to be built to a more irregular pattern. An attempt was made to create a "garden town" in which elements of nature were to be kept in central parts of the town. Nils Gellerstedt drew up a new town plan for Söderhamn in 1916 based on these principles. Areas of mainly small houses were built up in the 1920´s and 30´s to the north and south-east of the town. The already existing centre of town with its straight lines could not be changed, but the outskirts of town were developed according to a more irregular pattern.

1980

The air-force base (1945) and LM Ericson´s factory (1948) were localised to Söderhamn, and together with other industrial development led to an extensive immigration into the town and a boom in the housing production. Areas of flats and small houses grew up all around the outskirts of the town. The building of the housing areas Fålnäs and Nymåla meant that Söderhamn and the village of Stugsund were joined together. The southern link road was built at the end of the 1970´s, and connected the E4 road, the main road nr 301, and the two local roads Flygvägen and Stugsundsvägen. The link road means that heavy trafic does not have to pass though the centre of town. The area Klossdammen has been built to the south of Söderhamn, an industrial area Björnänge to the west, and the residential areas in Norrmyran, Kvarnmyran and Kilsmyran to the north.

 

      Image6.gif (231240 bytes)

 

 

1995

During recent years a new communications centre has been built near the link road, comprising of a new railway station and a new buss terminal. The railway line has moved to the south of the town, and two new railway tunnels have been built. Extensive development has taken place on the Tälje industrial estate. South of the link road lies Långtå, where the disposal tip is located, and also the sports complex Hällåsen. New areas of small houses have been built near the link road at Stormyran and Knektslätten.

 

hulogo.jpg (2962 bytes)

THE MUNICIPALITY OF HUDIKSVALL


 

 Back


This page is seen best in a 800x600 solution. The page is protected by copyright laws.
Media programme  Söderhamn Copyright © 1999.
Questions and comments to Webmaster.